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Inspiration and Ideas

Upcoming Classes I'm Teaching

  • Great Grilling Gone Gourmet

    North Seattle Community College
    Wednesday, July 19, 2006
    6:30- 9:00pm

    Turn good grilling into great grilling by experimenting with brines, marinades, dry rubs, and herb pastes. In this hands on class we'll learn how to turn simple grilled foods into gourmet treats.
  • Little Yeast Breads of the World

    North Seattle Community College
    Monday, July 10, 2006
    6:30- 9:30pm

    A hands-on class which teaches basic yeast bread techniques to create 5 little breads from around the world. We will also make simple accompaniments for each.

Courses I'm Taking

  • Sensory Evaluation of Wines

    South Seattle Community College
    Northwest Wine Academy
    Spring Quarter 2006
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May 20, 2006

Summer Barbecue Challenge Wrap-up Round Up

Lex Culinaria, a fellow food blogger, put out the call to cyber food junkies for fabulous summer barbecue recipes. So, last weekend I responded with a few blog entries on grilling and was excited to see links to them on her website. I was also excited to see what fabulous recipes and blog sites that other folks submitted. So, not to let a wrap-up go unappreciated, I decided to make five of the recipes at work today. Unfortunately, time got away from me and I didn’t get a chance to make the grilled pita bread (and there was tons of bread in the house already screaming to be grilled) but I did manage to make the other four, and they were all wonderful. Kudos to all who submitted recipes!

Dscf0495The first recipe I made was Helen’s Grilled Asparagus, Tomato, and Feta Salad. Whole Foods didn’t have organic cherry tomatoes today so I opted for Romas which I quartered, seeded, and then sliced lengthwise. I used more olive oil (I’ve never had a delicate hand with the olive oil) and a bit more balsamic vinegar than the recipe called for. I also took Helen’s suggestions of adding some basil, so I did a combination of basil and mint for the dressing. Very delicious indeed!

Dscf0500Also for lunch I made a salad with the Teriyaki Grilled Tempeh from McAuliflower's site.  I have to admit, I fudged a bit on this one because I didn’t want to buy both mirin and sake, and I knew I could make it work with what I had. So I substituted crisp white wine for the sake and dry sherry for the mirin. And since mirin is sweet, I upped the sugar slightly on the sauce. This recipe turned out so nicely I wondered why I don’t cook with tempeh more often! To make this into a salad, I made a simple dressing of rice vinegar and a bit of the warm sauce and tossed it with some spinach and baby Russian kale from the garden. Then I sliced mangos and fanned them on top of the greens. And then above that went the sliced tempeh, a healthy drizzle of the sauce, and a sprinkling of cilantro. Very easy and so tasty. Thanks, McAuliflower, for the recipe, and the reminder that tempeh is delicious.

Dscf0510And of course, to honor the host of the Barbecue Challenge, I made Lex’s recipe for Char Sui Beef Bundles. And to accompany them, I also prepared Haalo’s Grilled Potato Skewers. The people for whom I cook don’t eat much beef so I opted for pork loin that had been butterflied, pounded, and then cut in strips. Trent, my man at Whole Foods, did the butterflying for me but when it came time for pounding, it was naptime at the casa, so I skipped that step. I made the marinade as written except that I left out the Five Spice because, well, because I don’t like it. It was delicious without. I mixed up the marinade with an immersion blender which worked great. For vegetables I chose red bell pepper and snap peas, and instead of tying with green onions, I used big chives. It turned out very nicely but I think I would have preferred to use Lex’s thinly sliced beef. Next time!

Dscf0521And the potatoes. YUM! I chose tiny red creamer potatoes and for seasonings, I went with fennel seeds and a few sage leaves skewered between the potatoes. I didn’t want to go too Mediterranean since the bundles were decidedly Asian. I thought fennel was a nice meet in the middle. I started the bundles in the oven (400 degrees) since it was raining out and then moved them to the grill when I put the bundles on. You could do the whole thing in the oven, in fact, since they cook over indirect heat. I experimented with putting more than one skewer in a bundle, to save on foil, and that worked just fine too. The potatoes were creamy and delicious and the garlic added a nice touch, both for it’s scent and flavor. Next time, I might like to open the bundles and put them over the direct heat, once they’re cooked through. That would provide the nice grill marks and a bit of barbecue flavor as well. No complaints, however- it’s a recipe I’ll surely make again!

Thanks, everyone, for your wonderful input to my day at work! And thank you Lex for your inspiration.

May 16, 2006

All Grill, All Day

Dscf04705 83 degrees in Seattle, in May. The tomatoes are planted, the lettuce seeds are sprouting, the Spanish lavender is blooming, and the grapes vines are taking off. It feels like summer already. I couldn’t resist cooking al fresco today at work, so I prepared my menus almost entirely on the grill. And for me, it was a day to celebrate. We’ve passed the midway point of Nick’s deployment. It’s a downward slide through summer from here, if all goes as planned, and he returns in mid-August. Nick is my boyfriend, who is an officer in the Marine Corps, currently stationed somewhere in the Persian Gulf. I really don’t know where he is or where he is going, since plans seem to change on an hourly basis. And of course, their plans are so top secret even they don’t know where they’re going. Unless they accidentally post the secret plans on their website, which is what happened last time they were doing something interesting. But regardless of where he is, we’re over half way to his homecoming, and that is something to commemorate with a burger.

I never eat fast food and rarely eat pub food, so for me, a burger is celebratory. I usually opt for the healthfulness of a turkey burger, rather than a ground beef one. Turkey burgers can dry out on the grill, but I’ve discovered a few techniques that keep them juicy. I've found that by adding moist ingredients to the ground turkey mixture, and by using dark meat turkey, the burgers come off the grill tender and juicy. And another trick to making sure I get the flavor I’m after--  I make one tiny test patty of the mix, after putting in all of the ingredients, and cook it in a small skillet with some olive oil. That way I can taste for the seasoning level before making up all of the burgers.

I got the idea for these burgers from an old friend of mine, Tim, who used to make Salsa Eggs when we went camping. Perhaps I’ll write about Salsa Eggs one of these days…

Salsa Burgers

2 pounds ground dark meat turkey
½ cup fresh salsa (not the cooked kind), scooped into the measuring cup with a slotted spoon to avoid getting too much liquid
¾ cup finely grated hard cheese, like pecorino or parmesan
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 Tablespoons fresh herbs, if you’d like (cilantro is great here, oregano would be good, as would chives or parsley)

Preheat the grill on medium-high until the temperature reaches about 450. Mix up the ingredients with your hands. I use latex gloves for this. Make one small test patty and cook it over medium-low heat in a skillet, in about a teaspoon of olive oil. Cook both sides, until the meat is cooked through. Taste and adjust the seasonings. More salt? More salsa? Pepper? Put the final touches on your meat mixture and make it into 6 patties about ½ inch thick. When the grill is hot, scrape and oil the grates. Place your patties on the grill, cover, and cook about 5 minutes. Check for browning. If the burgers are browned to your liking, flip them over and do the other side the same way. At this point the burgers might be done inside but most likely they will need to cook a bit more. Place them all on one side of the grill and turn off the heat directly below them. Without the direct heat, they will not burn on the outside. And the heat from the other burner will keep the grill hot. When the burgers reach 160 on an instant read thermometer, they’re ready to go!

Great Accompaniments to the Salsa Burger

Avocado or guacamole
Tomato
Lettuce
Grilled onions
Condiments, including salsa
Cheese, pepper jack would be delicious (you could put this on the burger just before you take it off the grill so the cheese melts)
Toasted buns (put these on the grill a few minutes before the burgers are finished)

Makes 6 big burgers.

May 10, 2006

PT on the Q

Dscf0434Beautiful sauce cannot hide poorly cooked pork. Part two on the tenderloin... Yesterday’s rhubarb sauce compliments tender, juicy pork tenderloin, like a splash of lemon freshens a grilled salmon. A little bright acidity works magic with succulent roasted meat flavors. But pigs nowadays are so skinny! Although pork tenderloin is a fabulous cut for the fat conscious, it can be a difficult cut to keep moist, especially on the grill. So some years back I started experimenting with brining, the soaking of meat in a salt water solution, to keep it moist and tasty during dry heat methods of cooking. Pork tenderloin is a perfect candidate for the salt water spa treatment, since it is so lean, and small enough to brine in a hurry. Brining not only keeps pork moist during cooking, but the salt and other ingredients added to the brine help to flavor it. I’ve experimented with all sorts of additions to brines, from herbs, to sweeteners, to spices, and alcohol- and I’ve had great success with them all. Where water is an ingredient, one can always substitute other flavored liquids, like wine, tea, herbal infusions, liquors, maple syrup, and extracts. Here is the basic recipe I use for pork brines:

Basic Brine for Pork

1 cup very hot or boiling water
¼ cup kosher salt (much less if using table salt)
¼ cup brown sugar (for pork, the sugar adds good flavor)
Ice cubes
Cold water to make the total liquid equal 4 ½ cups

Dissolve the sugar and salt in the boiling water. Add ice cubes to cool the liquid. Then add cold water to make a total of 4 ½ cups of liquid. Taste the liquid and adjust the ratio. If it seems too salty to you, add a bit more cold water. I find this ratio works well but it’s a matter of personal taste. Add the brine to a gallon sized Ziploc baggie and put the pork inside. Place the bag on a pie plate or baking dish and refrigerate for about 3 hours.

Delicious Additions to Flavor Brines

1 teaspoon vanilla
Maple syrup instead of brown sugar
Bourbon, triple sec, or dark rum
Fruity white wine
Spices- fennel, black pepper, allspice- this one’s up to you!
Citrus Zest
The possibilities are limitless…just taste the brine BEFORE adding the raw pork.

* For yesterday's rhubarb pork, I added vanilla and triple sec to the brine. I also rubbed the pork with black pepper.

I find that 3 hours or so is a good amount of time for the pork tenderloin to brine. If you plan on brining longer, use a less concentrated solution and the opposite if you have less time. This is where experimentation comes in.

Grilled Pork Tenderloin

2 pork tenderloins- about 1 ¾ to 2 pounds total, brined
Olive oil
Herbs and spices for rubbing on the pork, if desired.
Sage and fennel are both good as is rosemary and orange zest
Black pepper

Take the tenderloins out of the brine and set on a baking rack covered with a double layer of paper towels. Blot the meat dry. Leave the meat at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. Preheat your grill on high. I use a gas grill. Coat the meat with olive oil and then rub any seasonings you might like onto the meat. Do not salt. When the grill reaches about 500 degrees, scrape it down and oil it. Place the tenderloins on the grill with the thickest parts over the hotter sections of the grill. Cover and cook until nicely browned, about 5 or 6 minutes. Turn over and brown the other side too. You can brown all 4 sides if you prop the tenderloins against one another. Once the meat is browned, check it for doneness. Poke it with your finger. If it’s still squishy, turn off the center burners and use only the outside burners to continue the cooking but without using direct heat. (The grill I use has 4 knobs- I turn off the center two while leaving the outer two on medium to high, depending on the heat. It should stay around 350 to 400.) Check the meat with a meat thermometer and take it off when the meat registers about 130 to 135. It will continue to cook as it rests so don’t overcook it. This is key! Take the pork off of the grill and put it onto a parchment lined baking sheet. Tent with foil and let rest 5 to 10 minutes before slicing. Pour any juices that accumulate into the sauce you’ve made or just dribble them over the sliced meat. Even skinny pigs make juicy tenderloin!

Serves about 4.

May 09, 2006

Raise your hand if you like rhubarb.

Dscf0426Rhubarb. Just the name sounds dangerous. And as plants go, I suppose it is. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are poisonous, which is why when you see rhubarb on the produce aisle, you see only the naked stalks. So just how poisonous are rhubarb leaves, I wondered? To quell my curiosity, I did a little research and found out that rhubarb leaves contain oxalic acid, which is used commercially in metal polishes, stain removers, and writing inks. Yikes. So my next question of course is, “So what happens if I eat them?” Included in the list of post-ingestion symptoms are ones I would expect- abdominal pain, vomiting, diarrhea. And thrown in for good measure is, “death from cardiovascular collapse.” I think I’ll stick to stalks.

So a little more research reveals that rhubarb is a vegetable from Asia that is related to buckwheat and garden sorrel. It’s high in Vitamin C and fiber, and was cultivated originally for medicinal purposes. When the Brits and Americans got their hands on the tart veggie, they decided that with a healthy glop of sugar it made a fabulous pie. And because rhubarb thrives in the spring, it has a natural affinity to strawberries and raspberries. Apples and pears also compliment rhubarb’s tart flavor, much like they compliment fall’s cranberries.

I’ve been experimenting with ways to use rhubarb in more savory than sweet applications. It is a vegetable after all. I’ve found, though, that even in savory dishes, rhubarb needs some sugar to round out its sharp flavors. Its tartness adds great zest to sauces, and when paired with sweet fruits, rhubarb’s bite balances the sugar’s tendency to cloy. Today I had a glut of apples and pears that were ripe so I decided to concoct some sort of sweet and tart compote for a grilled pork tenderloin. Here’s what I came up with.

This sauce would also be great with grilled chicken or a meaty grilled fish.

Rhubarb, Apple & Pear Savory Compote

Dscf0431 2 Tablespoons butter
3 stalks rhubarb, split down the middle and diced
1 apple, peeled, cored, and diced
1 pear, peeled, cored, and diced
1 large shallot, minced
2/3 cup tawny port
¼ cup dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger (more if you’d like)
Salt and pepper to taste
The meat drippings that collect after the meat has rested.

Heat the butter in a skillet over medium heat and when it’s foamy, add the rhubarb, apple, pear, and shallot. Stir only occasionally, as you want the fruit sugars to caramelize. When the fruit is golden brown, add the port and simmer, scraping up any browned bits. Add salt and pepper, ginger, and the brown sugar and simmer until the saucy part of the mixture is a warm brownish red color and is glaze-like. Taste again and adjust the seasonings. When your meat is rested after grilling, pour any accumulated juices into the sauce just before serving.

Makes enough for 4 portions.

The pork and sauce were served with Leek, Lemongrass, and Chèvre Risotto, and Cider Glazed Grilled Carrots.

May 02, 2006

Chicken del Sol

Img_1742 Yesterday I was supposed to have been at a wedding (yes, on a Monday). In some peculiar fit of altruism I had volunteered to cook chicken for the wedding guests, of which I was one. When I offered my culinary services, the guest list was fairly small but by wedding day, it had blossomed to almost 200. Holy chicken! And yesterday morning, I awoke after ten and a half hours of sleep, to find that the cold I had been chasing off with Emergen-C and orange juice had settled right in. Lousy timing for sure, as I was supposed to be catching a ferry to Whidby Island in short order to begin the chicken cooking fiesta. After leaving a rueful phone message for the groom, his mom called me back to get the complete course on chicken cooking, which would be handed off to some unfortunate relative.

Anyhow, I started feeling much better after making the call not to cook chicken for a gazillion people on my day off. I was super sorry to have missed the festivities, but no one needed my snotty nose in the wedding kitchen. Here’s a version of the recipe that I recommended to the wedding couple- the original recipe is called Chicken Marbella and it’s from the Silver Palate Cookbook. This is an adaptation that we’ll call Chicken del Sol.

This recipe is great for serving a crowd. It is good hot or at room temperature, and needs to be made ahead, so it’s a great dish for entertaining. It’s fabulous with polenta, but rice or egg noodles are good too.

Chicken del Sol

4 chicken breast halves, with bones & skin
6 cloves of garlic, pressed or minced
1 Tablespoon dried oregano
8 small sprigs of fresh rosemary, loosely torn apart
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
4 dried figs, quartered
8 dried apricots, halved
¼ cup oil cured olives, pitted
¼ cup capers, with a bit of juice
2-3 small pickled cherry peppers, sliced
2 bay leaves
Salt and pepper

1/3 cup brown sugar
½ cup white wine
Fresh herbs for garnish

Put the chicken into a 7 x 11 inch (or 9 x 13 if the chickens are big) baking pan. Mix all ingredients from the garlic through the bay leaves in a bowl and whisk to blend. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour this mixture over the chicken and turn to coat. Try to rub the marinade under the skin of the chicken. Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spoon the marinate around the chicken to coat. Sprinkle with the brown sugar and white wine and bake for about 35-40 minutes or until the chicken juices run clear when you cut into the meat. Look for about 160 on a meat thermometer.

Transfer the chicken to a platter and arrange the goodies around it. Garnish with fresh herbs (parsley and rosemary are nice). If there is a lot of liquid sauce, you can put it in a sauce boat to serve with the chicken. If time permits, join in the chicken dance.

April 22, 2006

Baci's Bacon Nose

Dscf0141 Baci is an old dog. Poor thing, she lives with me in a four story townhouse where I cook lots of delicious meals, and feed her kibbles. Very little still works on old Baci. She struggles up and down the stairs, her vision is poor, she’d sleep through a fire drill, and she’s got lumps and bumps all over her once brown, but now almost white body. The one thing that hasn’t gone South, though, is Baci’s bacon nose. Or chicken nose, or steak nose, or pork chop nose, for that matter. She can be passed out cold on her big green bed but when there’s meat on the menu, she’s all perked up and ready for dinner. And a normally sweet old girl, she becomes a pesky teenager, poking her nose in the kitchen as if to say, “You gonna eat all that?” And say she does. She’ll stand in the doorway to the kitchen and bark, just one bark, about every couple of minutes. Then she tilts her head sideways in that way that all puppies learn is totally irresistible to human types. So I toss her a Trader Joe’s Bacon and Cheese flavored biscuit, shaped like a sofa, and send her off to sleep again.

Dscf0276 Today I had a little catering job for the girlfriend of a guy I cook for now and again. I made some appetizers, one of which involved bacon: Gougères Stuffed with Crisp Bacon, Arugula, and Pickled Red Onions, from the Zuni Café Cookbook. Baci wasn’t around to join in the pork party- she was at my sister’s house sleeping on her futon and clearing up after my two nephews who leave unattended bread crusts and half eaten breakfast bars at recklessly low elevations. So I had to make bacon without her. I made oven bacon which I find the easiest and least messy way to cook bacon. So in Baci’s honor, I thought I’d pass along my oven bacon technique, complete with clean-up instructions. Bon Bacon!

Baci’s Oven Bacon

1 package thick-cut, applewood smoked bacon (I like the bulk bacon at the meat counter at Whole Foods or the Niman Ranch bacon from Trader Joe’s) 

Dscf0257 Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place parchment paper on a heavy baking tray with sides. Lay the bacon out on the parchment so that it is close together but not touching (it will stick together if it touches and is hard to separate when it’s hot). Place the bacon in the oven and bake for about 8 minutes. Rotate the pan back to front and continue to cook another 8 minutes. At this point the bacon should be starting to crisp up and should have rendered lots of bacon fat. Keep an eye on it from here on out, every couple of minutes. It goes from not quite cooked to quite cooked in no time at all. When the bacon is done to your liking, remove the pan from the oven and place it on a heat proof surface. With tongs transfer the bacon to paper towels over a metal cooling rack. Then pour the bacon fat into a glass or metal bowl. With the tongs remove the parchment by folding it up and placing it in the garbage. Again, try to pour off any more fat. Then put the pan directly into the sink and spray with very hot water to dissolve any of the rest of the grease. Finish cleaning the pan when it cools down or spray it with cold water to cool and then wash it. It should come clean really easily. Cleaning the pan while it’s still hot is essential! If you leave the parchment on as the pan cools it becomes ten times harder to clean. Later in the day, once the grease that you poured into the bowl has become solid, you can scrape it with a rubber spatula into the trash.

And since she missed the party, today I let Baci lick the spatula.

April 18, 2006

Where's My Onglet?

Dscf0213 My receipt from Whole Foods read, “Beef Onglet.” And of course, I thought to myself, what the heck is an onglet? It obviously comes from a cow, hence the beef part, but where on the cow would I look for an onglet? Should I look for an onglet? It sounds rather private. And of course, the next question that begs to be answered is, “Do I have an onglet?”

So let’s start with the first question of what the heck an onglet is. I know of an onglet as a hanger steak, which is one of my favorite cuts of meat. There’s only one per cow, and it hangs (aptly named) from the kidney, between the rib and the loin. It usually weighs about a pound and is the thick muscle which attaches to and supports the diaphragm. It can be a little hard to find (in the store, not on the cow), but is usually reasonably priced. Whole Foods carries hanger steaks but the stickers from their scales call them onglets.

I was originally attracted to the steaks because of their price ($8.99 per pound at W. F. which is about half the price of their premium steaks) but I am now a believer in the onglet. It is an extremely flavorful cut with a chewy texture, and it’s delicious marinated and grilled. Cooked to medium-rare (longer cooking dries it out) and sliced across the grain, it makes an amazingly tasty steak, great for stuffing burritos, topping a salad, or just eating on its own.

So the last question, which I can’t help but wondering, is do people have onglets? Webster wasn’t any help, so I called my neighbor Gretchen, who is a pharmacist and an expert on all things medical. I explained to her what an onglet is and where it is found on a cow. And her conclusion…”Kat, I think it’s safe to say, that people don’t have onglets.” So there you have it. If you want an onglet, you’ll just have to hit up Whole Foods. But not the one in Seattle, since there’s only one onglet per cow and I like them.

Grilled Onglet with Garlic, Lemon & Fresh Herb Rub

4 hanger steaks or onglets
Salt and pepper
5 cloves garlic
Zest of one lemon
Juice of one half lemon
2 large sprigs of rosemary or one small bunch of thyme
1 Tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
2 Tablespoons olive oil

Generously salt and pepper the steaks. In an immersion blender or small food processor, grind the rest of the ingredients into a loose paste. Put the paste into a Ziploc bag and add the meat. Squish the meat around in the bag to make sure all sides of each steak are covered with the herb paste. Let marinate for at least 2 hours in the refrigerator.
Preheat the grill on high until the temperature is at least 500 degrees. Remove the steaks from the fridge and let them come to room temperature. Scrape the grill and oil it. (I think pan spray works fine. Some say it’s dangerous.) Place the steaks at an angle to the grates and cook, covered for about 5-6 minutes. Turn and cook the other side, also covered, until the meat is medium rare, about 125 to 130 degrees. Remove the steaks from the grill and let them rest for 5-6 minutes before slicing. Slice across the grain and enjoy!

Makes 4 steaks.

April 13, 2006

Always Faithful Rosemary

Dscf0132 In folklore it is said that if you touch a lover with a sprig of rosemary, he’ll be faithful. My dog Baci has been tromping through my rosemary bushes daily and we’ve been together for more than 13 years. Perhaps it does work. Regardless of rosemary’s more romantic proclivities, it’s certainly been faithful to me in the kitchen. When all of the other herbs in my garden look twiggy and bare in the cold winter months, the rosemary bushes on either side of my front door stand tall and bushy and ready for action. And even in the summer months, when the rest of the herb garden is in full swing, the rosemary still finds itself comfortable mingling with warm weather foods, like eggplant and tomatoes. It is truly a versatile herb and can add a warm note of pine-like spice to dishes year round.

The weatherman’s forecasting rain for the rest of the week in Seattle, and my taste buds are still craving some warm, comforting foods from winter. Roasted pork tenderloin fits the bill exactly with it’s versatility to adapt to the season. I developed the recipe below to make use of the rosemary that’s taking over my doorway. And it is in bloom now, producing tiny lavender colored flowers that make a lovely garnish for all sorts of dishes. It’s about the easiest herb to grow in Seattle, its hardiness being more of a problem than its timidity. Its flavor is hardy as well, so a light hand with rosemary is essential. You can always add more.

This dish captures the early spring time with a little zip of citrus. It’s wonderful served on a bed of sautéed spinach, with  spring vegetables and roasted new potatoes.

Roasted Rosemary Pork Tenderloin with Grapefruit, Ginger & Shallot Pan Sauce

2 small pork tenderloins
Salt and pepper
¼ cup finely chopped rosemary
Olive oil for rubbing tenderloins

2 teaspoons olive oil
¼ cup shallot, chopped
1 clove garlic, sliced
1 teaspoon ginger, chopped
¾ cup white wine (I used a Washington Riesling)
1 cup chicken stock (you can buy 3 packs of one cup boxes at Whole Foods)
2 Tablespoons marmalade (grapefruit if you can find it, otherwise, orange)
1 Tablespoon butter
1 Grapefruit, peeled with a knife and sectioned, each section cut in half
Rosemary for garnish

Trim up the tenderloins, taking off the silver skins with a sharp knife. Rub them with salt and pepper and then with the rosemary and olive oil. Let them come to room temperature for about ½ an hour. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

In a large skillet, add the olive oil and heat on medium heat until shimmering. Brown the pork thoroughly on all sides, trying not to move the pork until each side is brown. You can kind of prop them against one another to get the sides. I find that the oil on the sides of the pan often tends to smoke so I often put something in the pan to soak up the extra heat (like a potato cut in half, cut sides down). But, this is optional. Once the tenderloins are brown, transfer them to a baking sheet lined with parchment (yes, another use for parchment!) and place the sheet in the preheated oven.

Now, back to the skillet. If there is no oil left in the pan you may need to add just a touch more. Then add the shallots and cook until they get a little soft, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until you smell them. Make sure not to burn the garlic! Then add the wine and deglaze the pan, scraping up all of the browned bits. Reduce until you have only about ¼ cup wine left in the pan. Add the stock and again, scrape up any bits. Now strain the sauce into a small saucepan and continue to reduce until the sauce starts to look a bit thicker and is about ¾ cup. Add the marmalade and whisk to blend. Taste and adjust seasonings. It should be a bit sweet, very savory, and a bit tart from the grapefruit. It may need salt and pepper. Whisk in the butter and the grapefruit and taste again. Keep warm.

Check on the pork after about 8 minutes in the oven. Poke it with your finger. It should have some squish in the middle. If it is starting to firm up, check it with a thermometer. It’s ready when it reaches 135, as it will continue to rise once it comes out of the oven. It will probably take about 12- 15 minutes. Let the meat rest for a few minutes and then transfer to a cutting board. Pour any juices from the pan into the sauce. Slice the pork on a bias and arrange on a plate. Again, pour juices into the sauce. Spoon the sauce and grapefruit around the meat and garnish with the rosemary.

Serves 4.

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