The Pound Cake Test

I felt very official when the email arrived--  I was sent a recipe to test for Cook's Illustrated Magazine. Although anyone with a subscription to their website can participate in the testing program, I was excited to be chosen to actually do it. So just at the height of our short lived heat wave here in Seattle, I received a recipe for a pound cake that needed to bake for 60 to 70 minutes. I had figured I would test the recipes at work, where there are always willing tasters of sweets. The 3 year old there usually cuts right to the chase. “What are you making for dessert?” she asks, not seeming to care what sort of meal she needs to slog through before it. But I couldn’t bear to run the oven in their already overheated kitchen, so I decided to do my recipe testing at home, at night. Gretchen came over to help and she made brownies to send to Nick in Kuwait, while I worked on the pound cake.

As a cook, I tend to use a recipe as a guideline, adding and subtracting as I see fit, and measuring by eye rather than by cup and spoon. As a baker, however, I am much more precise, although still one to improvise within the parameters that I know will work. So as an official C.I. Recipe Tester, I had to be on my best behavior. First I read the recipe thoroughly (a novel idea) and then assembled my ingredients. I also read through the evaluation sheet so I would know what kinds of questions I’d have to answer about the final product. And so I began, carefully measuring and mixing, according to the instructions. I weighed some ingredients and measured others with a cup. Having the ingredients at the right temperature is key to getting the proper texture, so I even measured those with a metal stem thermometer from the health department. My only deviation was that I forgot to keep track of the exact active preparation time, but I figured the assembly took about a half of an hour, which is really pretty quick for a cake.

And the results? It turned out splendidly. It had a fine crumb that was dense but light in texture. The flavor was buttery with just a hint of vanilla. And if the recipe didn’t take an hour to bake, I would say that it is the perfect accompaniment to summer berries.

I brought some of the pound cake to work the following day for my official tasters to try. Coincidentally, they were looking for a good pound cake recipe to add chocolate chips to for a special birthday. We looked the Best Recipe cookbook by Cook’s Illustrated, and to my surprise, there was the recipe I “tested,” in print, for everyone to make. Now I would never scoop Cook’s Illustrated on a new recipe that they would be working on and sharing with their magazine readers, but since the recipe I tested is the one from their book, I thought I’d pass it along. Make this at midnight in the cool of your summer kitchen.

Cook’s Illustrated Classic Pound Cake

1 cup unsalted butter  (2 sticks), softened (8 ounces) 
1 1/3 cups granulated sugar  (9 ounces) 
3 large eggs  (5.25 ounces, without the shells) 
3 large egg yolks  (2 ounces) 
1 ½ teaspoons vanilla extract   
1 ½ teaspoons water   
½ teaspoon table salt   
1 ½  cups cake flour  (6 ounces) 
 
Adjust oven rack to center position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Grease a 9-by-5-by-3 1/2-inch loaf pan (7 1/2-inch capacity) with vegetable shortening or spray. Line the bottom and sides of pan with parchment paper or foil.

Beat butter in bowl of electric mixer set at medium-high speed until smooth and shiny, about 15 seconds. With machine still on, take about 30 seconds to sprinkle in sugar. Beat mixture until light, fluffy and almost white, 4 to 5 minutes, stopping mixer once or twice to scrape down sides of bowl.

Mix eggs, yolks, vanilla and water in a 2 cup glass measure with a pour spout, set in a pan of tepid water until mixture is about 70 degrees. With mixer set at medium-high speed, take 3 to 5 minutes to add egg mixture to butter/sugar mixture in a very slow, thin stream. Finally, beat in salt.

Remove bowl from mixer stand. Turn 1/2 cup flour into sieve or shaker; sprinkle it over batter. Fold gently with rubber spatula, scraping up from bottom of the bowl, until flour is incorporated. Repeat twice more, adding flour in 1/2-cup increments.

Scrape batter into prepared pan, smoothing top with a spatula or wooden spoon. Bake until cake needle or tester inserted into crack running along top comes out clean, 60 to 70 minutes. Let cake rest in pan for 5 minutes, then invert onto wire rack. Place second wire rack on cake bottom, then turn cake top side up. Cool to room temperature, remove and discard parchment, wrap cake in plastic, then in foil. Store cake at room temperature.

Serves about 10.

Comments

[jenjen]

I absolutely love pound cake, and yours looks so light and moist.

I have just discovered your blog and its great, I am sure to return!

[kat]

Thanks for the encouragement, Jen!