Raise your hand if you like rhubarb.
Rhubarb. Just the name sounds dangerous. And as plants go, I suppose it is. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are poisonous, which is why when you see rhubarb on the produce aisle, you see only the naked stalks. So just how poisonous are rhubarb leaves, I wondered? To quell my curiosity, I did a little research and found out that rhubarb leaves contain oxalic acid, which is used commercially in metal polishes, stain removers, and writing inks. Yikes. So my next question of course is, “So what happens if I eat them?” Included in the list of post-ingestion symptoms are ones I would expect- abdominal pain, vomiting, diarrhea. And thrown in for good measure is, “death from cardiovascular collapse.” I think I’ll stick to stalks.
So a little more research reveals that rhubarb is a vegetable from Asia that is related to buckwheat and garden sorrel. It’s high in Vitamin C and fiber, and was cultivated originally for medicinal purposes. When the Brits and Americans got their hands on the tart veggie, they decided that with a healthy glop of sugar it made a fabulous pie. And because rhubarb thrives in the spring, it has a natural affinity to strawberries and raspberries. Apples and pears also compliment rhubarb’s tart flavor, much like they compliment fall’s cranberries.
I’ve been experimenting with ways to use rhubarb in more savory than sweet applications. It is a vegetable after all. I’ve found, though, that even in savory dishes, rhubarb needs some sugar to round out its sharp flavors. Its tartness adds great zest to sauces, and when paired with sweet fruits, rhubarb’s bite balances the sugar’s tendency to cloy. Today I had a glut of apples and pears that were ripe so I decided to concoct some sort of sweet and tart compote for a grilled pork tenderloin. Here’s what I came up with.
This sauce would also be great with grilled chicken or a meaty grilled fish.
Rhubarb, Apple & Pear Savory Compote
2 Tablespoons butter
3 stalks rhubarb, split down the middle and diced
1 apple, peeled, cored, and diced
1 pear, peeled, cored, and diced
1 large shallot, minced
2/3 cup tawny port
¼ cup dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger (more if you’d like)
Salt and pepper to taste
The meat drippings that collect after the meat has rested.
Heat the butter in a skillet over medium heat and when it’s foamy, add the rhubarb, apple, pear, and shallot. Stir only occasionally, as you want the fruit sugars to caramelize. When the fruit is golden brown, add the port and simmer, scraping up any browned bits. Add salt and pepper, ginger, and the brown sugar and simmer until the saucy part of the mixture is a warm brownish red color and is glaze-like. Taste again and adjust the seasonings. When your meat is rested after grilling, pour any accumulated juices into the sauce just before serving.
Makes enough for 4 portions.
The pork and sauce were served with Leek, Lemongrass, and Chèvre Risotto, and Cider Glazed Grilled Carrots.
I raise my hand! I raise both hands!!
Posted by: Alanna | May 15, 2006 at 05:45 AM
Followed your link from the BBQ roundup. Beautiful site! I just made a raspberry rhubarb sauce we used on angle food cake. I either lucked out or it was the worlds best rhubarb. I always loved the things my grandmother made with rhubarb from her garden. Glad to have another recipe for it's use.
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